When did you make the decision to start Otterwell again? Could you explain a bit about the brand and the first collections from a few years back?
The decision to start Otterwell again officially started at the start of 2015. I left a job I was unhappy in and started working towards building a business of my own. I think I'm one of those people that needs to work for themselves rather than others.
The early products which can been found flowing round the internet were of the back of a University project to create a business. Whilst the items we made were great I never saw it as brand or business it took me a few years to realise that what we did was actually ok.
For those reading this who have never heard of Otterwell, Its a brand and store based in Manchester. It’s run sole myself , our clothes are either made in the UK or USA and we also stock several like minded brands.
This time, are we right in thinking that Otterwell is more of a store, rather than just a label?
Yeah your spot on! The reason for doing both is that whilst I love designing my own products I also love finding new brands and also I think I would annoy myself having to be so biased to my own label and only wearing one brand.
Could you explain just how much work goes into the garments you create?
The actual design process is quite a quick one for me as I'm never trying to reinvent the wheel. Everything is based more on old designs or a spin on the past. The work doesn't really start, not that it ever feels like work until we are in the manufacturing process and sampling. Actually finding good factories is a ball-ache! So that takes a lot of time! But it’s not unusual to end with 4 or 5 samples to get the fit and details right.
For example on the Parka we all thought we had cracked it and just before production I realised that the sleeve length was measured around my arms, Which is great for me but anyone over 6 ft would have been fucked!
What's the inspiration behind the pieces?
It’s a worn out word in menswear but heritage. I use it because it covers a lot as one day it can be Workwear the next Ivy League and then it can be Rockabilly or Skinheads! Quality is a massive aspect of everything I do, I've been using this moto recently ‘ Of Buy Better, Buy Less’ which might seem strange coming from some one who needs to sell to make a living. What I'm trying to say is that it’s better to buy 4 really good quality shirts a year and be able to keep them for the next 5 years than 15 poor quality ones. I see a lot of brands who just churn out low quality products on the back of the brand name whilst making massive profit.
How do you decide which other brands to stock?
It’s usually brands I've worn or used, so I know what the customer is buying. Baracuta has just landed this week which a perfect example of this. I've got the G9 Harrington in two classic colours, I've worn them for years and paired with a pair of 501’s, Oxford button down and Brogues its classic style which can not be beaten or age!
Personally, what are your favourite brands at the moment? What's your outfit today?
So today, I'm wearing Double Denim, Fuck-sake is that allowed! I've got a Real McCoys USN Chambray shirt, Orslow 107 jeans. Chup Socks and Redwing Moc Toe Oxfords. I dropped some orders off before so put on a new Otterwell Coverall sample (jacket) that I'm testing out.
My favourite brands at the moment or the ones I seem to wear most usually with a Otterwell shirt are Alden, Red Wing,Post Overalls, The Real McCoys. Actually I tell you who I'm really liking is 3sixteen. I bought a few bits of theirs when I was in America last year on Honeymoon and its amazing gear, I’d love to stock them!
What is a typical day for you like running the brand and store?
It’s never 9-5! I normally spend the mornings getting orders sent out from the day/night before. That can often take the whole of the morning. I’ll be checking and answering emails as I go along. Once that’s out of the way it can vary from designing, factory visits speaking to suppliers. I quite enjoy the variety of it. Social Media is also a massive part of building the brand so I try to get an Instagram post out every day but its a lot harder trying to post as a business and not a person. I’m just getting used to twitter but I go on and I’m like why would anyone care If I had chips for me tea, so end up clicking off, terrible that isn't it!
What plans do Otterwell have for the future?
For 2015 it’s all about growing the store as both a brand and shop and having a more solid image of what it is for both myself and the customer. Something I think thats not crystal clear yet. With this you will see a more concise range of products and brands.
In 2016 I would like a physical space for the store. I'm not sure about a shop but more of a destination where you can try on the clothes and buy what you need in a cool place, have a chat, a coffee or beer and just hang out with like minded people.
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